Yes, that's right, I went to prison today. More specifically, I went to Seodaemun prison history museum in Seodaemun-gu. I didn't really have very high expectations for this place before I went, but I'm so glad I did. Because we went on a Wednesday, we were able to get a (free) English tour with a volunteer tour guide. I learned so much about the Japanese occupation of Korea during the first part of the 20th century.
When Japan invaded Korea in 1907 (?), they realized quickly that they needed prisons to detain all the people who were fighting against them. By October of 1908, this prison in Seoul had been constructed, and other prisons were constructed throughout the country.
At the museum you can enter the actual rooms where prisoners where kept. The rooms don't seem so small, until you realize that they were keeping up to 40 prisoners inside at a time. People would sleep in shifts because only so many could lay on the floor at once.
You can enter the torture chambers where you can see EXTREMELY GRAPHIC life size figurines depicting the various methods of torture used by the Japanese. There is fake blood splattered on the wall and you can look at figurines being flogged, electrocuted and even being sexually abused. Then you can make your way into another building where you can (as my tour guide put it) experience 'simulated' torture. This part freaked me out.... a little too much. First she told me to stick my head into a dark hole so I could experience electrocution torture. I wasn't quite sure what she meant by this... but I also didn't want to seem disinterested in their country's history... so i stuck my head in the hole, and wound up watching a Korean man (another life size figurine) plead for his life to a Japanese soldier with a voice that sounded strangely like a villain from some old school cartoon. But the worst by far was the simulated execution room. Let me first explain their method of execution first. You were placed in a chair, with a noose around your neck, in front of a room full of Japanese soldiers. The floor would drop out from under you, and you would, of course, hang. Then your body would be dropped below, where someone would drag your dead body up the stairs and toss it into the general cemetery on the other side of the prison wall. Ok, now that you know how executions took place, I can explain the simulated execution. We entered the room and saw the chair in front of a row of Japanese soldiers. When our tour guide asked one of us to have a seat... we both looked at her like she was crazy for thinking that we would do that... I don't want to have any simulated deaths, or real deaths any time soon, thank you. A group of middle school age boys then entered the room, and she asked if one would sit in the chair. Three out of the four boys gave the woman the same look we had just given her, but one timidly sat in the chair. As soon as he sat in the chair the Japanese soldiers (life like figurines once again) began speaking. I'm sure it said something along the lines of... you're sentenced to death, now DIE. Just a guess, since I don't understand at all... and as soon as the Japanese soldier stopped talking, the chair suddenly dropped about half and inch. Just enough to make the poor poor boy in the chair actually scream out loud. He got up and walked away a little dazed. I think he was permanently traumatized for life.
Anyway, this was a really great experience for me to help me realize why there is such animosity between Korea and Japan. You can also see clearly that they have no problem demonizing the Japanese fifty years after the fact. The whole museum is reeking in anti-Japanese sentiments. Although, after seeing... quite graphically, what the Japanese did to the Korean people, I can understand why they might have those feelings too.
If you want to visit this museum, get off at Dongnimmun Station on the orange line and get out at exit 5. Walk into the park to your right, and head up the road on the right. The prison will be on your left.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
I conquered Inwang Mountain (by accident)
This is what I was looking for: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=260583.
Guksadang which is a a shamanist shrine and some Zen rocks. They said that there was some climbing involved. So.. we started climbing.....
We climbed and climbed ... and climbed... every step of the way hoping to find the shrine ... and cursing the darned shamans for building their temple so high up the stupid mountain... Sooo many stairs..........
But when we reached the top, we realized that not even the shamans were dumb enough to climb that high. There was no shrine. Just a nice view. Unfortunately, we were so exhausted by this point that it was a little difficult to enjoy it (note the half-dead expression on my face in the first picture). We had just managed to accidentaly climb Inwangsam, a mountain of 338 meters. This takes getting lost to a whole new level.
Anyway, we climbed back down the mountain, utterly defeated by it. I hope someday I have the motivation to go back and find the shrine, but I don't think it will be this week....
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Getting lost in Seoul and finding ___________. (Yea, so I get lost a lot, so what?)
Ok, ok, so we've been getting lost quite a bit in Seoul the past few days, but we always find something interesting in the end.
Monday we found our way to Namsangol Hanok Village. This is a small "village" of traditional houses and museams. It's located right near The Korea House, where I guess you can watch traditional dance or music for a dinner show, but I think it might be expencive. You can arrive here by getting off at Chungmuro station (exit 3 or 4) and following the signs, it's very close. We also discovered that you can take the 263 bus here too, which also passes by wangsinmi, sindang and myeongdong as well. Entrance is free, and evidently they have shows in the evening, but I haven't gone to see any of those yet. The following are some pictures from Namsangol.
Women washing thier hands in the water. Not entirely sure why yet....
Boys playing a traditional Korean board game, which I believe is called Yut Nori. It's played by throwing sticks wich tell you how many spaces to move on the board.
Anyway, that was the most exciting thing we did on Monday, other than go to see a luxury apartment and realize how the other half lives...
Tuesday was a fun filled day of walking endlessly. First thing in the morning, we headed over to the USO office near Sookmyun Women's University subway stop on line 4. The USO is supposed to be the best place to get a tour of the DMZ. We were hoping to get on a tour this week, but the next tour we could get on was not until mid august. So, we signed ourselves up for that one and headed out to start our day. We decided that we wanted to go to Yeouido and maybe see the 63 building, but we realized that from where we were, there as no easy way to get to line 5 where that stop is. Seeing as how we're both from Boston, aka a "walking city" we decided, what the hell, lets just try to walk it. We know the general direction and it doesn't look.. too far... So we started walking... and we walked.... and we walked... and we walked.. and after about an hour and a half of walking and having no idea where we were, we looked up to see a strange sight.
A Catholic church right next to a very traditional looking building. I had to investigate. We walked right by the big catholic church and headed straight for the traditional looking building.
We decided to start looking for lunch.. but we couldn't find a suitable place and we suddenly realized that we were right near the Han river. We knew that the 63 Building must be on the other side. Unfortunately there was an entire highway to cross to even just get to the river. Crossing the river hadn't quite crossed our minds yet. We walked and walked until we found a foot bridge to cross the highway. We climbed up, and saw the 63 Building in the distance.
We made our way over to COEX with no problems. I found an entire Nintendo store, but it really wasn't as impressive as I had hoped it would be... Then we headed out and over to the Buddhist temple on the opposite side of the mall.
They didn't have any tours, or really many signs in English for me to learn more about the temple, but I did realize immediately that this is a real functioning temple. I think about half of the population of Korea is Buddhist. There were various Buddhist ceremonies taking place, so we felt a little uncomfortable entering the buildings. We just tried to peek in from the outside. I wish I knew more about Buddhism though.... Anyway, I took these pictures. I wish I could tell you more about what they are, but I really have no idea.
Myeongdong
Oh, and while you're in the area of Myeongdong, you should walk a few more blocks and you'll find yourself in Namdaemun market. This is a more traditional market with lots of bargaining with street sellers. (actually, this area reminded me alot of Patronato in Santiago, but with much tighter streets and a bigger variety of things to buy.) Hopefully I'll have a post about Namdaemun someday when I have more time to explore. I did manage to buy myself a set of ten (Korean.. aka metal) chopsticks... since somehow my apartment doesn't have a single pair.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Getting lost in Seoul and finding Deoksugung
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Friday, July 25, 2008
Fan Death! (Watch Out)
I have spent my whole life without relizing the inherent danger of fans, so I thought that I should enlighten the rest of the world outside of South Korea to the concept of Fan Death.
Fan death is death caused by leaving an electric fan on with the window closed for an extended period of time. The same also occurs with air conditioners. There are several theories that have been suggested by professionals how this phenomenon occurs.
1) The fan sucks the air out of the room, causing a vacuum, and therefore suffocating the poor, stupid fool who fell asleep with the fan on.
2) The cool air causes hypothermia, thus causing death.
3) The fan chops up the oxygen molecules in the room, suffocating that poor fool.
4) Some odd combination of all these factors
Several deaths every summer are declared as Fan Deaths, and thus the media proliferates this.. idea.
For more information regarding Fan Death, please visit these web sites
http://encyclopediadramatica.com/Fan_death
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_death
http://www.fandeath.net/
http://www.straightdope.com/classics/a970912.html
Fan death is death caused by leaving an electric fan on with the window closed for an extended period of time. The same also occurs with air conditioners. There are several theories that have been suggested by professionals how this phenomenon occurs.
1) The fan sucks the air out of the room, causing a vacuum, and therefore suffocating the poor, stupid fool who fell asleep with the fan on.
2) The cool air causes hypothermia, thus causing death.
3) The fan chops up the oxygen molecules in the room, suffocating that poor fool.
4) Some odd combination of all these factors
Several deaths every summer are declared as Fan Deaths, and thus the media proliferates this.. idea.
For more information regarding Fan Death, please visit these web sites
http://encyclopediadramatica.com/Fan_death
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_death
http://www.fandeath.net/
http://www.straightdope.com/classics/a970912.html
Oh, and as a side note. This is not just an urban legend to Koreans. This is hard science. It is taught in school, and Americans here have had to to teach it to thier students. Don't you love teaching lies?
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Survival Korean
I originally wanted to go to Korea so that I could learn Korean. I've been trying to study for a while, but its hard to teach yourself. Now it seems that since I've been accepted to my job back in April, I've had much less motivation to study Korean. That doesn't make any sense to me, but that's what has happened. I have my language books, dictionaries and the rosetta stone... yet, I have been toooo lazy lately. But, the other day my darling baby cousin (who's not so little anymore) gave me her iPod shuffle, since she has a real iPod now. I've managed to survive 22 years without an mp3 player, and really had no desire for one until the past few weeks. I was origninally thinking that an iPod would be great for podcasts of NPR... since I've kind of turned into an NPR junkie since I started working in the lab. With an mp3 player, I figure I can listen to On Point and All Things Considered while walking to work... yea... I'm a geek.
As I was searching for NPR podcasts, I stumbled across something else, even more useful. Language lesson podcasts. If you go into the podcasts section of the iTunes store, you can find several different choices for studying Korean. I've started using Survival Korean. They have just the basics. Restaurants, phrases getting around. No grammar or anything complex. I guess that's where I need to start at this point, since I'm going to be arriving in about 5 days... scarrryy... haha. They also have PDF files that you can download to accompany the audio lessons from www.survivalkorean.com, but I haven't gotten around to trying those yet. Oh well. Everyone else I talk to there doesn't seem to speak much Korean. But anyway. I just had to share my new discovery!
As I was searching for NPR podcasts, I stumbled across something else, even more useful. Language lesson podcasts. If you go into the podcasts section of the iTunes store, you can find several different choices for studying Korean. I've started using Survival Korean. They have just the basics. Restaurants, phrases getting around. No grammar or anything complex. I guess that's where I need to start at this point, since I'm going to be arriving in about 5 days... scarrryy... haha. They also have PDF files that you can download to accompany the audio lessons from www.survivalkorean.com, but I haven't gotten around to trying those yet. Oh well. Everyone else I talk to there doesn't seem to speak much Korean. But anyway. I just had to share my new discovery!
Friday, July 11, 2008
Churches of Santiago
I just wanted to post some pictures of some of the churches we visited in Santiago. I'll make a seperate post for the Templo Votivo de Maipú. I'm tired and it's late, so I'm not going to write much here today. Just enjoy some pictures.
These two photos are of the Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago. It is located in the center right on one side of La Plaza de Armas


This photo was taken in the inside of the chapel near the top of Cerro San Cristobal, right to the side of the Virgin.

This church is in Las Condes, and is right to the side of Centro Artisenal de Los Dominicos. I believe that the the Church is called Los Dominicos... but don't quote me on that one...
This photo was taken in the inside of the chapel near the top of Cerro San Cristobal, right to the side of the Virgin.
This church is in Las Condes, and is right to the side of Centro Artisenal de Los Dominicos. I believe that the the Church is called Los Dominicos... but don't quote me on that one...
A side note to my Korean restaurant in Santiago...
So my friend pointed out to me... that the name of this restaurant is 평 양면 옥- Pyong Yang Muyn Ok.... another way to transliterate this would be P'yongyang.. or in other words the capital of North Korea... I wonder if they are North Koreans that run the restaurant? And if they are... how on god's green earth did they wind up in Chile of all places?
That's just my random thought for the day.
That's just my random thought for the day.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
A Korean Experience in Santiago/ Encontrando un poco de Corea en Chile
After our visit with the Virgin, we decided to take a trip down to Patronato for some tasty Korean food, since two out of the four of us had never tried Korean food (I was obviously not one of the two). We had to introduce them to the wonders of bulgogi.
While I don't think this was the best bulgogi I have ever had, I must give the restaurant props for having a super cool atmosphere. I really felt like I was in a traditional Korean restaurant. We took off our shoes, and sat on pillows on the floor around the table and they brought us over a little grill to cook our own bulgogi on. The food was good, I only say that it wasn't the best bulgogi I've ever had because I've had some really good bulgogi before. Still definitely worth trying though. And some of the side dishes that they brought over were excellent. Still don't know what they were, which is probably a good taste of what's to come when I get to Seoul next week (YIKES) but definitely tasty.
If you want to go try for yourself next time you're in Santiago, here is the address.
평 양면 옥- Pyong Yang Muyn Ok
Santa Filomena 170
Santiago, Chile
735-7219

Despues de nuestra visita a Cerro San Cristobal, decidimos ir para comer comida Coreana en honor de mi viaje a corea que viene pronto. Un amigo conocía un lugar en Patronato para comer comida Coreana en un estilo muy authentico. Dos amigos mios nunca habían probado comida Coreana, entonces tuvimos que presentarles a la maravilla de bulgogi.
평 양면 옥- Pyong Yang Muyn Ok
Santa Filomena 170
Santiago, Chile
735-7219
Despues de nuestra visita a Cerro San Cristobal, decidimos ir para comer comida Coreana en honor de mi viaje a corea que viene pronto. Un amigo conocía un lugar en Patronato para comer comida Coreana en un estilo muy authentico. Dos amigos mios nunca habían probado comida Coreana, entonces tuvimos que presentarles a la maravilla de bulgogi.
Admito que este bulgogi no fue el mejor que he probado. Pero, igual, he probado bulgogis muy buenos. Lo que me gusto de este restaurante fue el ambiente bien Coreano. Sacamos los zapatos y nos sentamos en almohadas en el suelo, y nos trayeron una cocina pequenita para cocinar el bulgogi. Supongo que esto es la manera traditional..... voy a ver en una semana mas!! (Que miedo!!!!!!) Todavia no he encontrado un restaurante asi en USA.
En fin, sugería este restaurante para tener una experiencia Coreana mientras está en Sudamerica. Se ubica aqui:
평 양면 옥- Pyong Yang Muyn Ok
Santa Filomena 170
Santiago, Chile
735-7219
Cerro San Cristobal
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At the top though we found many worshipers crowding around the base of the Virgin to pray and to see inside where there was something to see, although I never quite figured out what it was. Praying at the feet of a 22 m Virgin is not really my style, but the view was great, and the sunset was amazing. Thanks to the pollution, the sunsets in Santiago are truly spectacular with many bright colors.
After that it was getting dark and we headed back down the Teleferico back to the bottom of the hill. We then decided to grab some Korean food for dinner in Patronato, but... I'll save that for another post.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Skiing in the Andes/ Cuando fuimos a la nieve
Last Monday we decided to take a little trip out of Santiago and go skiing in the Cordillera (aka, the Andes), or as the Chileans say, we "went to the snow". I'll admit it was a little pricey, but it was well worth it. The skiing was, by far, much better than anything I have ever seen in VT. I wish I had had more time to explore the mountain more.
There are many ways to get up to the ski hills outside of Santiago. We used a company called Skivan. We did have a few small equipment issues, but the driver was excellent and I thought the prices were fair. There are many other transport services that will bring you up into the cordillera to ski as well.
The only downside that I found to skiing in the cordillera was the commute. Not the distance, because it was really only a little over an hour from Las Condes to the mountain, but the absolute fear I felt driving up and down the mountain. So many sharp twists and turns, not to mention the sharp drops over the side of a mountain if the driver were to screw up. Our driver was excellent, and drove nice and slow, but still, I spent the entire ride home praying to every deity I could think of to spare my life if the van were to fall off the cliff. But. Still. I'd do it again. It's worth it.
The one thing that really made an impression on me was the lack of trees. I mean, I knew that there were no trees, A because of the altitude and B because of the very little amount of soil that is available. Its kind of the limiting reagent to the equation. But still, its strange to ski without trees on all sides.
I'll leave you all with some lovely pictures that I took while skiing.
El lunes pasado, fuimos a la nieve para esquiar. Me encantó. Estoy seguro que los lugares de esqui en la Cordillera son muchos mejores de cualquier lugar de esqui cerca de mi en el noreste de los EEUU. Porque? Porque no hay hielo. La cosa que me carga de esquiar es el hielo. Me da demasiado miedo cuando esquio por el hielo, y creo que affecta mi capacidad de esquiar. Sin hielo, tengo mucho mas confianza de mis aptitudes.
El otro problema de Valle Nevado es que es un lugar para gente que sabe esquiar. Para mí, fue perfecto, pero para mi amiga, ella encontró el lugar my dificil. Solo hay 3 pistas para precipiantes. Mi amiga encontró Valle Nevado muy dificil.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Chile... where oh where to begin??
Today I have returned from my two week voyage to Chile. All I can say is that my friends are incredible and I wish I could have stayed longer. Our friend Oscar let us stay in his house for the entire two weeks of the trip, and his parents and sister were incredibly accommodating to us. I hope that we did not overstay our welcome, staying for so long there, but I really felt like I was at home there. They are all such wonderful people.
I did so much over the past two weeks that I will probably be posting from now until the day I leave for Korea to get everything up here. Some things to look forward to: Skiing in the Andes Mountains, Cerro San Cristobal, Various Churches, A Korean Experience in Chile, and who knows what else might come out too.
No more blogging for me tonight... it's sleepy time for me.